There were good parts of my trip as well. The hotel I stayed at, only $35 US a night with its cool breezes and pampered, lush grounds. The ex-pat Americans I glimpsed in the coffee cafes with their woven Guatemala bags slung over sloped shoulders, the awesome view of Lake Atitlan, clouds ringing the volcano, and the Mayan woman I met who remained childless at 40, and adopted a newborn abandoned in a clinic, her dream of becoming a mom coming true at last.
They say Americans and Europeans gravitate to Lake Atitlan because it resonates with a sort of deep spiritual power. I don't know. All I know is there is kind of a cruel beauty, a primitive haunting air to the lake, with the volcanoes standing guard as they have for thousands of years, their jagged edges possessing a serene and yet terrible power.
For those indicating they want to help, I'll let you know when I have more info. Thanks.